Piper Nigrum: The plant that paid a king's ransom

When the Visigoths besieged Rome in the fifth century AD, the Goth King Alaric demanded 3000 pounds of peppercorns as part of the ransom to be paid. He knew that he had the Romans by the short and curlies (so to speak). Sure, the Romans loved eating all types of peppercorn. But pepper was also worth a hell of lot of cash.

In modern times, it seems crazy to think that pepper alone could pay a king’s ransom. Pepper is in every pantry (even if it’s buried at the back) and on the table of every cafe (except the super fancy ones where a waiter comes around with a grinder). However, pepper was once so valuable, it was used as a currency. The phrase ‘peppercorn rent’ now means a small sum – however, back when it was coined it meant an exorbitant fee.

Piper Nigrum

Piper Nigrum is the plant that the peppercorn comes from. It is native to the Malabar Coast of India however most of the world’s production now takes places elsewhere. After the Romans established sea trading routes for the spice, Hindu colonists took the spice across to Java (Indonesia and Malaysia). It grows well near the equator so modern day production hubs of all types of peppercorn are in Thailand, tropical Africa, the South Sea Islands and Brazil. Szechuan pepper, native Australian pepperberries and pink peppercorns don’t come from Piper Nigrum, but from other plants entirely.

How to pick a pepper

The wrinkled beads of white and black in your grinder are all the same plant that has been treated differently after harvest to get a different product.

BLACK PEPPER

Black peppercorns are picked when green (unripe) then rubbed from their stems and dried. They contain an enzyme in their outer husk that turns black as it matures. A pinch of black pepper along with a pinch of salt is what ‘seasons’ food and lifts the taste. Pepper also features in spice mixes, pickling mixes and is a key ingredient in chai spice. It’s a good gateway spice to experiment with if you are a little afraid of using spices in the kitchen.

WHITE PEPPER

White peppercorns are picked when red (ripe) and soaked under gently running water for two weeks so that the outer husks rot and can be rubbed away easily. After that they are dried. White peppercorns can be ground and used in the same way as a black pepper but don’t leave black specks in food. Often pepper grinders will contain a mix of both types of peppercorn.

GREEN PEPPER

Green peppercorns can be bought dried or pickled. They have been picked when green (unripe) the they are either boiled to remove the enzyme then dried or simply brined. They are a milder flavouring ingredient, but still have a great peppery taste and a berry-like texture.

Chicken with green peppercorn sauce

Green peppercorns are my favourite ones to work with, especially the French ones that come in a tiny green tin. One of the recipes that left home with me in an orange exercise book crammed full of handwritten instructions for meals that I loved to eat was this recipe for chicken with green peppercorn sauce. Such a rich, indulgent recipe didn’t really belong in a book that was otherwise packed full of ‘easy things to do with mince’ and other uni-student favourites. But my mother had cooked this recipe - only once that I can recall - not long before I left home and I wanted to be able to recreate its savoury creaminess for myself.

I don’t remember cooking this dish more than a handful of times in the subsequent years. However, every single time that I have consulted this recipe I have been surprised and delighted at the flavour all over again. Each time I cook it, I make a resolution to make it more often, but considering the amount of cream and butter - it’s probably best I don’t.

INGREDIENTS

• 6 small chicken breast fillets

• Flour seasoned with salt and black pepper

• 1 Tablespoon butter

• 1 Tablespoon olive oil

• 2 Tablespoons of lemon juice

• 1/4 cup chicken stock

• 1 teaspoon French mustard

• 1 Tablespoon green peppercorns

• 1/2 cup of thickened cream

METHOD

1. Coat chicken fillets with seasoned flour.

2. Heat butter and oil in a frying pan.

3. Add chicken. Cook until golden brown and cooked through (about eight minutes on each side - depending on thickness). Remove from pan and set aside.

4. Add remaining ingredients, except cream, to pan. Bring to boil and simmer until sauce reduce by half.

5. Add cream, stir until well combined. Simmer three minutes, then pour over chicken to serve.

Parts of this piece originally appeared on my decommissioned blog Easy Green Recipes.